Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Today, on the Rex Parker Does the . . . blog, @Ellen S said:

. . . I want to talk about Questinia's bread recipe! I made it last week. What a HOOT! 
Her recipe said:
Mix 3 1/2 C warm H2O with 1 TB yeast and 1 TB salt.
Stir in about 6 C flour until no lumps.
Dough will be wet. Let rise an hour or so.
Form as baguettes or boules, let rise additional 15 mins or so.
Bake in quick oven. (that’s 400 degrees. Or 500 degrees – if 500, “15-25 minutes”. Hah.)
Also useful as a pizza dough.

That turned out to be "about" 2# of flour = one bag from Sprouts. And exactly one packet of Active Dry Yeast. So measuring was sure simple. But I used whole wheat flour which might have messed up the whole process. I also didn't let it rise long enough, let it raise another time, maybe a few other things I should have done or not done. But the amazing thing is, I did everything wrong and it still tasted great. I'll play around and let you know if I can get a version that shapes into baguettes. 


I've been baking bread  every three or four days now for the past three or four months. I'm still seeking the perfect baguette or batard or boule. Lately I'm happier with my results than I have been.


The bread I baked today.

Some background: In the late 70s when I worked for the Living History Center, the creator of the Renaissance Pleasure Faires and the Dickens Fair in California, I lived with the family of a woman who, among other things, researched and prepared meals from the renaissance period. Every day or so, she would dip her hands into the steel garbage can she kept her flour in and pull out a few double hands full of flour and dump it into a wooden bowl she kept on the table, she'd add water, salt, sugar or honey, and yeast and mix it all up with her hands. She'd knead it for a bit then leave it alone for a while. She'd go back and do things to it every now and again and, after a few hours there would be the wonderful smell of bread baking. Here's the point: bread is a very forgiving thing to make. One can make a lot of mistakes and still get good tasting bread. You need only look at the various recipes for bread that can be found in books or on the internet to realize that there are innumerable variations that will all produce decent bread.

Now, as to Questinia's recipe. To me, that seems like far too much water for that amount of flour. My renaissance friend told me and many many recipes confirm that a good rule of thumb is two cups of water to six cups of flour. A more hydrated dough will produce bigger baguette-like holes in the crumb but a more hydrated dough would come from more like 5 1/2 cups of flour instead of six and that is going to depend on the humidity in your kitchen.

I weigh my flour for accuracy and use grams because I only have an electronic postal scale. I regard one cup of flour as 110 grams and use 660 grams of flour to make two medium baguettes/batards. You used just over 900 grams and I don't think that was even enough. Next, you used whole wheat flour. Because of the germ and other stuff in whole wheat that white flour doesn't have, whole wheat won't rise as much as white flour. I don't remember the exact reason, but that's the gist.

I've been using the recipe for hearth bread from the King Arthur Flour website. I've varied it slightly here and there, mostly in method but occasionally in the sweetening, using honey, syrup, and brown sugar. I've only noticed a significant difference in taste the one time I forgot to add salt. I bought sourdough starter from KAF and went through all of that process and made a couple of loaves but the result was nowhere near what I, having grown up in the San Francisco Bay Area, would regard as sourdough bread. If I really really want that, I can have it shipped to me. So, to me, sourdough isn't worth the effort required to make it just to save the cost of a packet of yeast.

I use KAF bread flour and would recommend it. I tried using all purpose flour and whole wheat flour but prefer the bread flour. It has more protein and seems to set up better for me.

There is something amazing about doing something humans have been doing for ten thousand years. Bread and beer go hand in hand and it can be argued beer brewing and bread baking developed side by side. No, I don't grind my own wheat but it's magical to take flour and turn that white powder into food. And what wonderful food it is. The Roman army marched on it. A pound of bread per day for each soldier and, if he was lucky, some olive oil to dip it in. Baking bread speaks to me in a primal way. It connects me to my neolithic farming ancestors and all the others through the ages.

My renaissance friend tells a story of her great grandmother baking bread by a camp fire in the morning after it had risen overnight. She then set more dough to rise through the day as she walked beside her covered wagon on the Oregon Trail. Nobody rode the wagons as the added weight taxed the oxen. That night, she baked more bread and then delivered a son. She was hiking again the next day. He got to ride, at least some of the time, in the wagon.

Bread permeates our history as human beings. I hope I'm not preaching to the choir. All of this assumes you are not a seasoned baker. Continuing that assumption, I hope you continue your adventure into bread baking. I'll offer this little bit of advice: find a recipe that suits you and keep with it until you get the results you desire. I can't think of much that's more rewarding than creating food from bland powder except occasionally giving a loaf to a friend or neighbor.

2 comments:

  1. Steve J says, "@Ellen S: One thing to keep in mind when using whole wheat flour: It soaks up more moisture, so you have to increase the water you use to make the dough. Try about 10-15% more water than you'd use for white flour. That'll help keep the bread moist, since it's easy to end up with dry whole-wheat bread."

    Hmmm. I didn't have large airholes, but it also wasn't overly dense for my taste. I mean, it was whole wheat after all. I found a British guy's recipe that calls for 400g flour, and 300ml water. Gggggg. Okay, you estimate 1 cup = 110g. To that's ... 3.6 cups of flour to about 1.25 cups of water. Sorta closer to what you were saying. BUT if Steve J is right, I should have been using more water.

    Well, I got more flour today, so I can try again. Only thing is, I eat it. When I buy sliced bread in the store, I stick it in the freezer and never eat it. Never eat it by itself. I keep eating this stuff. Not good for my diet.

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  2. I'm not entirely sure but KAF will suggest not using 100% whole wheat flour. More like 60 to 70% whole wheat to white. In general, I believe as long as you're using unbleached flour, you're getting a healthier flour and therefore a healthier bread.

    I'd say to check recipes on the internet. I really like the KAF website and their recipes. Sure, they're trying to sell their products but they support the heck our of them whether you buy their stuff or not. By many accounts, KAF is the highest quality flour on the market. If you like, I'll dig up all my references for you. Anyway, they have what they call the Baker's Hotline and they'll answer any questions you may have about anything to do with baking. When I started, I called them a lot and got good advice. They also have some very helpful videos. Don't ignore the ones aimed at professional bakers. Scaled down, they have very good advice for the home baker too.

    No, I don't believe Steve J is right at all. At least not in his assessment of the recipe you used. The whole wheat flour you used probably won't yield the big holes you mentioned, if you wan't them. Those do come from a more highly hydrated white flour dough. Something I'm trying to learn.

    The two loaves in the picture above have yielded a nice crispy crust, a close crumb which is not too dense but is still chewy. Some of the best bread I've made so far. But then, my wife tells me that I've said that about each of the last three or four batches. She's not as critical as I but I believe they are getting successively better. The loaf in the foreground of that picture was finished around 5:30 PM yesterday. It didn't last until noon today. My wife and I are still dropping weight which we both needed to do.
    A while back, we just stopped eating packaged foods. We make everything with fresh produce. That seems to have made a huge difference in our well being. Bread is not our undoing. If anything, fresh bread made with no additives has been helping.

    There is a thing called something like the Baker's Ratio. It's a way to express recipes so that any amount can be made with additional ingredients expressed as a percentage of whatever weight of flour is being used. Bread, for example, is a total of 170% with the weight of the flour being 100%, The remaining ingredients total 70% of that. I wish I could recall the exact amounts of the ingredients, but water makes up the bulk of that 70%. I seem to remember that water by volume weighs about twice what flour weighs. Maybe even more.

    BTW, if you don't use a whole packet of active dry yeast and you're not going to throw the rest away, fold the packet tightly closed and refrigerate it. Use it within two weeks. Yeast is cheap, but why waste anything? After all, it's alive.

    If I think of more, I'll add to these comments.

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